Getting to know the brilliant Basarwa
In the early hours of Friday morning, my media colleagues and I found ourselves heading up the A1 highway for a camping excursion unlike any other.
Our destination is Xere, a village deep in the Boteti region, some 15km from Rakops.
However, this was much more than just camping out in the bush; it was an opportunity to immerse ourselves in the culture of the Basarwa courtesy of the Xere Cultural Festival.
Since this was the festival’s second edition, a few of my GC-based comrades were already well versed on what lay ahead.
Unfortunately, I was deflated by the news of an over 700km, nine hour road trip.
Listening to them swap stories of the previous journey got me amped up.
The voyage felt as long and as draining as described, the highlight being a mini photoshoot of the trees at Mmadikola village.
By that point, we were very close to our destination, which helped revive flagging spirits.
We finally arrive at the Xere Cultural Festival venue greeted by colourful branding from exhibitors, busy setting up their stalls for the opening ceremony.
This year’s installment attracted some real powerhouse names, with President, Mokgweetsi Masisi as guest of honour alongside First Lady, Neo Masisi and Vice President, Slumber Tsogwane.
The first thing you notice about Xere is the thick layer of white sand coupled with the strong wind that blows in waves, whipping the sand through the air on a joyride directed straight at one’s face!
For anyone interested in visiting this side of the country, I highly recommend neck buffs, balaclavas, shades and a hat.
Also, you can leave the designer clothes behind (or anything else you don’t want getting completely covered in dust!).
We settle into our surroundings and are guided to our camp site for the next two nights.
Bringing your own camping gear is allowed but I was impressed by the ample accommodation provided by the festival organisers.
From the VIP big-wigs to us regular folks, there were tents stretched out as far as the eye can see, all within walking distance of the festival and its activities.
There’s little time to relax as the opening ceremony starts soon.
The festival site’s main attraction features a scaled down, simulated Xere settlement and kgotla, set up for guests to interact with the Basarwa and observe their way of living.
It all feels a bit staged but I suppose it’s as authentic as possible.
The Basarwa provided a glimpse into their unique way of life through five mogwaafatshe houses. Mogwaafatshe is thatched housing made of sticks and grass readily available in their environment.
This is suited for the traditional, nomadic lifestyle of the Basarwa.
These houses featured a nursing mother and child, a caretaker’s dwelling, a traditional doctor’s residence, a storage house for medicinal plants, and a wild food storage area, alongside live demonstrations of meat being prepared.
President Masisi arrives with his distinguished delegates and is warmly welcomed by Xere Chief, Molaodi Molapisi.
In a previous interview with The Voice, the Chief had threatened to boycott the event, upset over what he called ‘unfulfilled promises’ from last year’s inaugural event.
‘I wonder what changed his mind’ I muse as Chief Molapisi proudly gives the Welcome Remarks.
The proceedings start with captivating, traditional song and dance by the women while the men demonstrate how to start a fire using nothing but sticks.
Mma Masisi was invited into the nursing mother’s room to appreciate their customs.
The festivities transitioned to a ‘Sundowners event’ a few kilometers away from the venue.
I’d never undermine the eloquent speeches of our Honourable President and his Ministers; however, the real star of the show was in the sky (pun intended).
We were treated to the country’s first ever drone show courtesy of Lowapi Drone Light Shows.
The Xere night sky was illuminated with choreographed drones illustrating the pride of Botswana and specifically Basarwa culture.
A gold medal, bow and arrow and Pula flashed across the sky in hypnotising lights as the drones shape-shifted from one image to the next.
It was brilliant entertainment to close off a memorable evening.
The next morning was set for a game drive to Central Kalahari Game Reserve as one of the activities on offer.
Instead, this being my first experience with the Basarwa people, I opted to interact as much as I possible with them.
Language barrier was surprisingly not an issue as many were able to communicate in Setswana and Sesarwa.
I observed one gentlemen crafting hunting weapons from scratch, while others cooked game meat (phuduhudu).
My most interesting encounter was with the traditional doctor.
I waited out the long lines for a traditional medical examination so to speak. The good doctor preferred to be anonymous only referring to himself as ‘Monnamogolo’.
He instructed me to sit on the floor with my left shoe off and leg crossed, perhaps to be at one with the earth and ancestors.
‘Monnamogolo’ gave me wooden trinkets to speak my requests into and throw on the floor to interpret.
While I won’t mention the specifics of our conversation, there was merit to their revelations.
Furthermore, to whom it may concern: they warned me about you and I have prepared myself adequately!
Anyway, allow me to fast track to the late afternoon as the music festival begins.
Xere Cultural Ensemble put on a mesmerising performance narrating their culture.
A tough act to follow, but with heavyweights like Franco, Culture Spears and Vee Mampeezy in the line-up, there was an electric atmosphere that continued through the night.
All in all, after the friendly reception from the Basarwa and obvious preparedness of the organisers, Xere Cultural Festival is a great concept, well worth the 1, 400km round trip from Gaborone.
I am certain it can only grow from here.
